LONDON—Exhausted after another long day tasting the latest innovations of the culinary world, food critic Norman Hammond was reportedly contending with a late-night hankering Wednesday for a liquid nitrogen-frozen raviolo balloon. “God, the second I woke up I knew that I wanted something really starchy, puffed up with seawater smoke, and floating in midair,” said Hammond, adding that he knew he would not be able to get back to sleep until he satisfied his craving for some spherified pasta dabbed with persimmon gastrique and finished off with a coulis of beetroot ash extract. “Unfortunately there is literally only one restaurant on the face of the earth that can do it justice, and it’s all the way in Paris. I could go to that Alain Ducasse place around the block, but their caramelized quail eggs aren’t going to hit the spot right now. Plus, I think they only have two stars. Christ, I haven’t sunk that low yet.” At press time, Hammond had been annoyed to open his fridge and only find a single cube of Matsusaka Wagyu smeared with eel sauce.